Guardian UDR777HD Wireless Security Kit : MAINTAINING and SOLVING PROBLEMS

MAINTAINING SYSTEM
UPGRADING UDR777HD MONITOR FIRMWARE
Check your system firmware version on the Network Information screen.
Go to www.uniden.com and search for the UDR777HD product page. Check the current firmware version.against your system firmware level. If you need to update your UDR777HD firmware, download the most current firmware version to your system’s SD card and then upload that firmware to the monitor.
1. Eject the SD card from the monitor.
2. Insert the SD card into the SD card adapter (included) and then insert it into your PC. If your PCdoes not have an SD card slot, you will need to use an SD card to USB adapter (not included.)
3. Go to www.unidenvideo.com.
4. Copy the current firmware to the SD card.
5. Remove the SD card and reinsert it into the monitor.
6. Upgrade the firmware (see page 39).
TAKING CARE OF YOUR HARDWARE MONITOR
As you use your monitor keep the screen clean by wiping it with a microfiber cloth to remove fingerprints, dust, etc.
CAMERAS
When dust and grime builds up on the camera lens and glass, it affects night vision capability. The infrared light reflects off of the dust and grime, limiting the camera’s “vision.” Use a microfiber cloth to regularly clean the cameras or when night vision video is cloudy or unclear.
MANAGING RECORDED FILES
Over time, your SD card will fill up with recorded files. If there are files you need to keep, transfer them to your computer for storage and remote viewing (see page 46). Otherwise, reformat your SD card every 4 to 6 weeks (see page 32).
COPYING FILES FROM THE SD CARD TO YOUR COMPUTER
1. Remove the SD card from the monitor.
2. Insert it into your computer’s SD card slot.
3. Navigate to the SD card and locate your files.
4. Copy them to the computer. These files can now be deleted from the SD card or the SD card can be formatted.
SOLVING PROBLEMS

If you have any trouble with your system, try these simple steps. If you are still having a problem with your camera, check the manual that came with your camera. If you still have a question, visit the Uniden website at www.uniden.com for assistance.
IF... :
The motion sensor won’t respond to movement: 
• Increasing the sensitivity of the motion sensor

• Checking the masking pattern
The motion sensor goes off when there’s nothing there:
• Decreasing the sensitivity of the motion sensor.

• Checking placement considerations.
I can’t play my video clips in another program:
• For MAC: Download another video payer such as Elmedia player.

• For PC: Video will play in players such as Windows Media® Player if an H.264 CODEC plug-in is installed.
I schedule a recording, save the schedule, and the recording does not happen at the scheduled time : 
• Check the settings on the Schedule Recording Setup screen
• Ensure that the system time is set to the current time.

• Make sure that the SD card is inserted into the monitor and there is still memory available on that card.
The camera’s signal status icon shows no bars : 
• making sure the camera is plugged in.
• making sure the camera is paired to the correct channel.
• re-pairing the camera and monitor.
• moving the camera closer to the monitor; it might be out of range.

• making sure the camera is turned on in Camera Setup
The camera won’t pair with the monitor : 
• making sure the camera is plugged in.
• pressing and releasing the pairing button quickly. Do not press and hold the pairing button.
• Check if other cameras in the area are also in Pairing mode.

Disconnect power to other cameras.
When I power up my monitor and cameras for the first time, they seem to be on but there is no picture on the screen :
• verifying that the cameras are turned on.
• verifying that the monitor is displaying a channel with a camera assigned to it.
The monitor picture has frozen :

Using a blunt object like an unbent paper clip to press RESET on the back of the monitor to reset the monitor. The monitor turns off. Press POWER to turn it back on.
I cannot remotely acces my recorded files :
• Verify that the monitor is connected to the internet.
• Verify that the time zone is set correctly for the monitor.

If you are away from your system, you will need someone to verify these items for you.
INTERFERENCE
This equipment has been tested and found to comply with limits for a Class B digital device, pursuant to Part 15 of the FCC rules and ETSI (EN) 300328. These limits are designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference in residential installations. This equipment generates, uses, and can radiate radio frequency energy, and if not installed and used in accordance with the instructions, may cause harmful interference to radio communications.
However, there is no guarantee that interference will not occur in a particular installation. If this equipment does cause interference to radio or television equipment reception, which can be determined by turning the equipment off and on, the user is encouraged to try to correct the interference by one or more of the following measures:
• Reorient or relocate the receiving antenna.
• Move the equipment away from the monitor.
• Plug the equipment into an outlet on a circuit different from that to which the monitor is connected.
• Consult the dealer or an experienced radio/television technician for additional suggestions.

CAUTION! Any changes or modifications to this equipment not expressly approved by the party responsible for compliance could void your authority to operate the equipment

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Installing BCD536HP HomePatrol Series Scanner with Wi-Fi

The BCD536HP can be placed on a convenient surface in your home as a base station, and connected to a standard outlet that supplies 120VAC, 60Hz. You must use either the supplied antenna or an electrically correct outdoor antenna, properly and safely mounted at your chosen site.

The unit can also be placed above, beneath, or in the dash of your vehicle using the supplied bracket and mounting hardware.

• If your scanner receives interference or electrical noise, move the scanner or its antenna away from the source.

• Do not use the scanner in high-moisture environments such as the kitchen or bathroom.

Avoid placing the scanner in direct sunlight or near heating elements or vents.

Power Related Issues

Important: To prevent memory from being corrupted, do not unplug the AC adapter during the time the memory is accessed for programming or auto store.

Note 1: If when you connect the AC adapter the [VOL] /Power Switch is ON, the scanner may not power on. Should this occur, simply turn the control OFF, then ON again.

Note 2: When you turn off the scanner using the power switch, the scanner remembers the last settings and mode. When you turn power back on, it resumes the previous mode.

Connecting an Optional Antenna

The scanner’s BNC connector makes it easy to connect a variety of optional  antennas, including an external mobile antenna or outdoor base station antenna.

Note: Always use 50-ohm, RG-58, or RG-8, BNC terminated coaxial cable to connect

an outdoor antenna. If the antenna is over 50 feet from the scanner, use RG-8 low-loss dielectric coaxial cable. Cable loss increases with higher frequency.

Connecting an Extension Speaker

In a noisy area, an optional amplified extension speaker, positioned in the right place, might provide more comfortable listening. Plug the speaker cables 1/8-inch (3.5-mm) mini-plug into your scanners back-panel Ext. Sp. Jack.

WARNING! If you connect an external speaker to the scanner’s Ext. SP jack or headphone jack, never connect the audio output line to a power supply and ground. This might also damage the scanner.

BCD536HP Only - All audio output is Class-D amplified (PWM). Never connect Ext. SP jack or headphone jack to an external Class-D AMP.

Base Station

This is the simplest approach to let you get started quickly. Decide on a location that is convenient to a nearby wall outlet, has desk space to let you complete your programming worksheets, will safely allow the indoor antenna to be extended, or near a window to use an outdoor antenna.

To secure the radio to a surface by means of the mounting bracket, follow the steps below:

1. Attach the four protective mounting feet to the mounting bracket when you casually use the scanner on a flat surface. Should you desire to permanently mount the scanner, remove the feet and use wood screws through the bracket as described in Steps 2 and 3.

2. Use the bracket as a template to mark positions for the two mounting screws.

3. At the marked positions, drill holes slightly smaller than the screws.

4. Align the bracket with the threaded holes on the sides of the radio case so the bracket is beneath the radio. Secure the bracket using the two threaded knobs. Never over tighten the knobs.

Once the radio is positioned, connect it to a source of AC power using the supplied 13.8V, 750 mA AC adapter. Insert the barrel of the AC adapter to the jack on the rear, upper right side of the radio marked. Insert the connector of the supplied indoor telescoping antenna to the BNC Antenna

Connector and apply moderate pressure to secure it.

Vehicle Installation

You can mount your scanner in your vehicle, using either the supplied bracket or the optional DIN-E sleeve.

If the scanner loses power (as when you turn off your car’s ignition with the scanners power switch on), it can corrupt the microSD card. To ensure that does not happen, turn off the scanner before turning the car’s ignition off.

WARNING! AVOID AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT ZONES.

Ignoring this installation concern may result in bodily harm and the inability of the airbag to perform properly.

Mounting Using the Bracket

With the bracket removed from the radio, use the holes in the bracket as a template to initially mark the location you plan to use in your vehicle. Be absolutely certain of what might be behind the mounting surface before making any holes, be it above, or below, or in front of your dash, armrest console, or other location. If you drill carelessly, expensive damage can result. If in doubt, consult your vehicle dealer’s service department or a qualified professional installer.

1. Using appropriate screws or other hardware, secure the bracket.

2. Insert the scanner and insert the bracket knobs to lock the scanner in position.

3. Attach the Cigarette Lighter Power Cord to the rear of the scanner and plug the adapter end into a dash mounted 12V DC socket.

4. Attach a suitable mounted mobile antenna to the antenna jack on the back of the scanner.

Mounting Using the DIN-E Sleeve

If you are unsure about how to install your scanner in your vehicle using the optional DIN-E sleeve, consult your automobile manufacturer, dealer, or a qualified installer. Before installing, confirm that your scanner fits in the desired mounting area and you have all the necessary materials to complete the task.

Your scanner requires a 2 x 7-1/8 x 5-5/16 inch (50 x 180 x 135 mm) mounting area. Allow an additional 2-3/8 inch (60mm) space behind the unit for connectors and wires.

1. Remove the bracket if it is attached.

2. Remove the four Philips screws from four small tabs on the rear of the case that secure the outer metal case and pull off the case (toward the rear) with care.

3. Install the DIN sleeve into the opening in your dashboard, lip facing out.

4. Push out the top and bottom tabs to hold the sleeve firmly in place.

5. Before inserting the scanner in the sleeve, attach the cable from the previously mounted antenna. Attach the DC Power leads. RED goes to a positive (+) connection on your fuse block while BLACK connects to the vehicles chassis ground (-).

6. Connect the ORANGE lead to one side of the headlamp switch so that when you activate the headlights, the scanners LCD display changes intensity. Be sure all the connections are routed away from any potentially pinching or slicing sheet metal.

7. Slowly slide the scanner into the sleeve until it locks in place.

8. To remove the unit, fully insert the removal keys into each slot on the left and right edges of the front panel. Carefully slide the radio from the sleeve.

Removing the Scanner from the DIN-E Sleeve

If you plan to connect other devices or wires to the radio, such as a GPS unit, at a later time, you should plan to remove the scanner from the DIN-E sleeve. This is easily done using the provided

Removal Keys that come with the optional DIN-E sleeve.

Refer to the illustration that follows, showing the Removal Keys.

Fully insert both Removal Keys into the slots on the left and the right edges of the radios dress panel. You cannot remove the radio with only one key. Press in fully, and do not twist the keys.

The radio will unlock from the sleeve making withdrawal from the sleeve possible. Store the keys in a safe place for future use.

Mounting Using ISO Technique

Some vehicles can take advantage of another approach to mounting a radio in a vehicle, called the ISO technique. However, this technique requires a very detailed and thorough knowledge of the technique. Therefore, we strongly suggest that if you have any doubt about your experience and abilities, please consult with a professional installer who is familiar with the ISO approach to radio installation.

To begin the process, it is first necessary to remove the scanners outer metal sleeve from the inner chassis. Unthread the four screws in the rear of the unit. Slide the cover toward the rear and off. Once the sleeve is removed, you will see threaded, metric machine screw holes on either side of the chassis cabinet. Uniden does not supply these screws. Their diameter, length, and screw type should be chosen by a qualified installer based on the internal vehicle bracket which will be used in securing the scanner chassis.

Once the original radio is removed from the vehicle dash and the fit of the scanner is correct, be sure to connect all the power, audio, antenna, and any other cables or wires, to the scanner before the scanner is secured.

The following illustration is a typical example of the ISO technique and the general side mounting screw holes often encountered. It does not actually represent the Uniden scanner or your vehicle’s mounting bracket. Only a professional installer will be able to determine the best and correct approach.

Connecting DC Cable with Orange Wire

Connect this cable to the vehicle’s electric system that receives power when you turn on your headlights. Now your scanner’s display will automatically dim when you turn on the headlights.

Using Internal Batteries (BCD436HP Only)

You can power your scanner using three alkaline or rechargeable AA batteries.

There is no switch for the battery type. Using non-rechargeable batteries, select “No” at the

Battery message when connecting the USB cable.

1. Install 3 AA batteries, matching the polarity symbols (+ -).

2. Replace the cover.

When Battery icon flashes and the scanner beeps every 15 seconds, replace or recharge the batteries.

Using Rechargeable Batteries

You can also use three rechargeable batteries to power your scanner. Before you use

rechargeable batteries, you must charge them. The scanner has a built-in circuit that lets you recharge batteries while they are in the scanner.

If the USB cable is connected to the scanner, or batteries are installed in the scanner when an USB cable is connected, the scanner will check the battery condition.

When the scanner is turned on, the scanner does not charge the batteies.

When the scanner is turned off, the scanner will charge the batteies.

The scanner displays “Normal Charging” while charging the batteies according to the Set Charge Time setting.

Caution: If the scanner gets too hot while charging, it will turn off automatically.

If the batteries are not installed, “No Battery” is displayed.

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APPCAM25HD Camera : MAINTAINING SYSTEM, TROUBLESHOOTING

MAINTAINING SYSTEM
TAKING CARE OF YOUR CAMERA
When dust and grime builds up on the camera lens and glass, it affects night vision capability. The infrared light reflects off of the dust and grime, limiting the camera’s “vision.” Use a microfiber cloth to regularly clean the cameras or when night vision video is cloudy or unclear.
MANAGING RECORDED FILES
Over time, your microSD card will fill up with recorded files. If there are files you need to keep, transfer them to your computer for storage and remote viewing.
Otherwise, reformat your microSD card every 4 to 6 weeks
Copying Files from the microSD Card to Your Computer
1. Remove the microSD card from the camera.
2. Insert it into your computer’s SD card slot. Use an adapter if necessary.
3. Navigate to the microSD card and locate your files.
4. Copy them to the computer. These files can now be deleted from the microSD card or the microSD card can be formatted
TROUBLESHOOTING
Before going through these troubleshooting procedures, verify that you have the most current version of this manual. Go to www.uniden.com and select
Owner’s Manuals from the Support tab’s drag-down list. Navigate to your model’s manual and open it. Check the issue and date on the front cover.
HOW TO IMPROVE THE WIRELESS SIGNAL QUALITY

If possible, remove obstacles in between camera and receiver that might reflect the signal. These could include furniture, cabinets, and walls. If the wireless signal is not improved, relocate the camera closer to the receiver.
IF... :
The app cannot find the camera : 
• Make sure your network supports DHCP protocol.
• Make sure that the DHCP option is turned on.
• Make sure the camera and your mobile device connect to the same WiFi router.
• Make sure the WiFi router is activated.
• Make sure the camera is properly powered on.

• Use the “ADD CAMERA” function to manually add the camera.
The camera does not find the router to connect to : 
• Make sure you selected the correct router in the Manage WiFi Network box.

• Make sure you entered the correct password for the router you selected in the Manage WiFi Network box.
My smartphone or wireless device cannot find the camera during setup:
• Make sure the router is turned on.
• Refresh the connection.
• Make sure your smartphone is connected to the same network as the camera.

• Make sure the camera’s green LED is blinking in a 3-flash/pause pattern. If it isn’t, reset the camera by pressing and holding the Reset button on the cord until the LEDs begin to flash.
No image appears : 
• Make sure the power adaptor is not damaged or defective and is plugged into an electrical outlet with power.
• Relocate the camera to obtain the best reception of wireless signals.

• Make sure the camera is properly configured in the app.
Poor image quality : 
Clean the camera lens using a lens cleaning cloth.

Spots or dust on the lens can also cause image quality problems.
Motion detection is not working :
• Make sure the sensitivity setting is not turned OFF. (Set sensitivity through the Advanced tab.)
• Adjust the sensitivity of the motion sensor. (Set sensitivity through the Advanced tab.)
• In motion detection mode, a moving object within the camera viewing angle is necessary to trigger the motion sensor for recording.

• Make sure the system date and time have been correctly set.
Bright white spots appear at nighttime :
The camera’s infrared LEDs produce invisible light that reflects off surfaces such as glass. Install the camera on the other side of windows or place the lens flush against
the surface to improve the night vision.

Please check the environment rating (Ingress) of the camera(s) before installing outdoors.
Memory card error :
Make sure the memory card is correctly inserted and formatted.

Please backup the data before formatting. This Format function will erase all data on the memory card.
Wrong date and time are shown :
• Make sure you’ve selected the correct time zone. Unexpected date and time can result in an incorrect recording schedule.

• Confirm the system date/time of the mobile device to ensure correct operation.
Router signal strength is weak :
• Change router/camera relative position.
• Use the Ethernet cable to physically connect the AppCam 25HD camera to your router.
• Use a Wi-Fi repeater/extender to maximize the service range of your Wi-Fi router.

• Switch your router to 11b/11g mode in order to improve router service range.
Limited internet bandwidth :

• Avoid more than two users accessing the AppCam 25HD at a time. 

[Read more...]

Install Cameras: APPCAM25HD Outdoor HD WiFi

Consider the following when installing cameras:

• Clear line of sight video transmission distance is best.

— Walls, especially brick and concrete, shorten the transmission distance.

— Placement next to windows allows better transmission.

• Avoid having a direct light source in the view of the camera, including street lights, ceiling or floor lamps, spotlights in the driveway, etc.

• The camera is equipped with built-in infrared LEDs so you can use night vision for 24-hour surveillance. The LEDs will automatically activate at night and the picture viewed will turn to black and white. The night viewing range is up to 40 ft. Avoid pointing the camera lens directly at clear glass; the night vision LEDs will cause a blurred image.

• Optimized motion detection range is 6 - 18 feet for the camera. The farther away an object is, the less accurate the motion detection.

Avoid pointing the camera directly at any bushes, tree branches, or moving objects that might naturally move due to winds. Otherwise, the motion detection feature may record unnecessarily.

You can mount the AppCam 25HD with the stand on the bottom (on a flat surface such as a table-top), on the side (on a wall), or on the top (on the ceiling or under an eave or overhang).

1. Use your mobile device to test the places where you are considering mounting the camera. Hold the device in that location; if you still have a WiFi signal on your device, the location should be okay. Attach the camera stand if you have not already done so.

2. Unplug the camera from the power source and install it.

3. After the camera is installed, reconnect power.

Mount the AppCam 25HD Base

1. Hold the base of the camera stand where you want to mount it and mark the location of the screw holes.

2. Use the included screws and anchors to attach the base to the wall or ceiling. You can also screw the base into a flat surface such as a tabletop if needed.

3. Before attaching the camera, tug gently on the stand to make sure it is securely in place.

Attach the AppCam 25HD Camera

1. For each AppCam 25HD, attach the camera bracket to the mounting screw. You can attach the stand to the top or the bottom of the AppCam 25HD as needed. Tighten it a few turns, then turn the AppCam 25HD to face the direction you want.

2. Tighten the camera brace up against the AppCam 25HD to secure it into place.

3. Unlock the mounting post by turning the wingnut to the left a few turns.

4. Set the mounting post to the correct angle, then tighten the wingnut until the post is locked into place.

5. After the AppCam 25HD camera is installed, reconnect power.

[Read more...]

The BC355N Scanner User Guide: Installing for Home and Mobile

For Home Use (Desktop Installation)

1. Insert the DC plug end of the AC Adapter into the DC 13.8V jack on the rear panel.

2. Plug the AC Adapter into a standard 120V AC wall outlet.

3. Plug the Telescoping Antenna into the ANT connector. Extend the antenna to its full height. For frequencies higher than 406MHz, shortening the antenna may improve the reception.

Use the desktop stand (fold out from bottom of unit) for a better viewing and operating angle. 

Helpful Hints

• If strong interference or electrical noise is received, relocate the scanner or its antenna away from the source.

• If you are operating the scanner in a fringe area or need to improve reception, use an optional antenna designed for multi-band coverage. (You can purchase this type of antenna at a local electronics store.)

• If the optional antenna has no cable, use 50-70 ohm coaxial cable for lead-in. A mating plug may be necessary for the optional antennas.

For Mobile Use (In-Car Installation)

Temporary Mobile Installation

A Vehicle Power Adapter is provided for an easy, temporary power supply.

Warning: Do not use the Vehicle Power Adapter in a positive ground vehicle.

1. Plug one end of the Vehicle Power Adapter into the vehicle’s accessory power jack and the other end into the DC 13.8V jack on the back of the scanner.

2. Connect the mobile antenna plug into the ANT connector on the rear panel. For more information on antenna installation, please refer to the instruction guide that came with your mobile antenna.

Permanent Mobile Installation

Permanently installing the BC355N scanner into a vehicle involves two main steps - physically installing the scanner and physically connecting the power supply. It does not matter which is installed first; perform these procedures in an order that is most appropriate for your vehicle’s configuration.

Permanently Mounting the BC355N Unit

1. Select a location in your vehicle to mount the BC355N unit. Avoid any locations that could interfere with your driving. In a passenger car, the ideal location is underneath the dashboard on the passenger side.

2. Use the mounting bracket (optional) as a template for marking the location of the mounting screws.

Note: If there are screws already holding the dashboard, you may be able to use the same screw holes to mount the bracket.

3. Drill the necessary holes and secure the mounting bracket in place using the screws provided.

CAUTION: Do not drill into air bags. Do not drill if what is behind the dashboard is unknown.

4. Mount the scanner to the bracket only after the wiring has been connected to the rear panel.

Permanently Connecting the Mobile Power Supply CAUTION: If you are not experienced in connecting accessories to the vehicle fuse box, please see your

automotive dealer for advice on proper installation.

1. Check the vehicle battery connections to determine which battery terminal (positive or negative) is grounded to the engine block or chassis. Most of today’s vehicles use a negative ground. If your vehicle has a negative ground, follow Steps 2 and 3. Otherwise, skip to the Caution in Step 3.

2. Connect the RED wire of the DC power cord to the accessory contact in your vehicle’s +13.8 VDC fuse box.

3. Connect the BLACK wire of the DC power cord to the negative side of the vehicle (usually the chassis). 

CAUTION: In vehicles with a positive ground, the RED wire connects to the chassis and the BLACK wire connects to the accessory contact in the fuse box.

4. Insert the DC plug into the DC 13.8V jack on the back panel. 

[Read more...]

Vacuum cleaners buying guide

There are several different types of vacuum cleaners and lots of options and extras to consider. This buying guide will take you through the differences between the main types of vacuum cleaners available. Once you've made up your mind, take a look at great range of vacuum cleaners.

Upright or Cylinder?

Perhaps the most important question to ask when buying a vacuum cleaner is whether an upright or cylinder model is right for your needs. Upright vacuum cleaners are generally popular, as they are usually easier to use and ideal for large carpeted areas. However cylinder vacuums are generally cheaper and take up less space.

Upright vacuums:

Are often easier to store

Are generally easier to control

Make use of a brush bar, which helps remove dirt trodden into carpets

Are ideal for cleaning large areas

Please note that not all carpets are suitable for rigorous cleaning with high speed rotating brushes. Damage may occur. Always check your carpet cleaning instructions.

Cylinder vacuums:

Tend to be lighter and take up less space

Are Ideal for cleaning stairs, hard floors, upholstery and working between furniture

Are generally more affordable

Require a higher level of motor power

Key features to look out for

Once you have decided whether a cylinder or upright vacuum cleaner is the right machine for you, you can start looking at the finer details and features of particular models.

How clean is the cleaner?

Filtration is a very important point for allergy sufferers or asthmatics. Filtration determines how many dust particles will escape into the air from the vacuum exhaust. There are several types of vacuum cleaner filtration, some more effective or sophisticated than others:

Stage filters: these filters out the dust in a series of stages. Though they vary considerably, a typical filter comprises four stages: a double-skinned bag, a filter between motor and bag and a final filter. There can be anything up to seven stages.

Lifetime filters: these will last the entire life-span of the vacuum cleaner, without needing to be changed (filters, like vacuums, normally last between 7 and 10 years).

HEPA or S-Class filters: capture even the smallest allergy-causing particles, making them ideal for allergy sufferers.

Charcoal filter: particularly handy if you have pets, as they include an extra charcoal layer to help neutralise unpleasant odours.

Bag vs. bagless

Vacuum cleaners with bags are generally cheaper, but continually replacing them can be fiddly. One option is to buy a vacuum cleaner with bags that seal the dust away for easy disposal (essential if you are an allergy sufferer).

Bagless cleaners tend to be more expensive, but are a good long-term investment, as you won't have to keep buying bags. Some models have anti-bacterial agents to help keep them clean, these are ideal for allergy sufferers.

The motor

How powerful and effective your vacuum cleaner is depends on a number of factors. As a general rule, the higher the wattage the more powerful the cleaner, which is more important on cylinder machines as the dust has further to travel up the tube. It's not just the wattage though: airflow and the design of the machine also help to improve the suction power. On upright cleaners it's the type and quality of brush that can make difference. Many models have variable power - useful for switching between carpets, hard floors, rugs, upholstery and curtains.

From the 1st September 2014 The European Union’s new regulation requires every machine launched in the market on or after this date to carry an energy label, with ratings based on the vacuum’s performance on multiple attributes.

For the most efficient vacuum cleaner look for highest rating on Carpet dust pick up and Hard floor dust pick up.

Brushes and attachments

For different types of cleaning, different types of attachment are needed. Most vacuum cleaners come with three attachments: crevice tool, upholstery and dusting brushes. An additional turbo-brush is useful if you have cut-pile carpets or hairy pets. A horsehair or parquet brush is ideal for wooden floors, and some cleaners have an extendable tube, to help clean out odd nooks and crannies.

Other useful extras

Auto cord rewind: usually found on cylinder cleaners. Great for storage and convenience.

Full indicator: a useful warning for when your machine is getting full.

Capacity: worth checking your cleaner's dust capacity. Usually between 4 and 6 litres. The higher the capacity, the less time you spend changing the bag or emptying the drum.

Weight–Lighter cleaners may be easier to handle and manoeuvre

Tools: telescopic extension tubes and stair cleaning hoses are particularly useful.

Other types of vacuum cleaner

Though the majority of vacuum cleaners bought are either cylinder or upright, there are a few other types you may want to consider:

Wet and dry cleaners: if you want to avoid an expensive carpet cleaning bill in the future, (due to an unexpected spillage), upgrade to one of these affordable machines – with the addition of carpet shampoo it will wash your carpets, and rescue you from a spillage too.

Handheld vacuum cleaners: ideal for the kitchen or car, these time-saving little cleaners can reach into small spaces and pick up crumbs and dirt. Perfect for clearing up messes quickly without you having to spend time and effort wheeling out your main cleaner.

Polishers: designed for wooden floors, these machines vacuum and polish.

Steam cleaners: these are perfect if you have to do lots of heavy-duty cleaning.

Energy labelling for vacuum cleaners

Would you like to buy a machine that has been specifically designed to have a reduced environmental impact throughout its life cycle? This might include lower running costs due to better performance, improved recyclability and ultimately, savings on your energy bill.

From 1st September 2014 the European Union eco-design stipulates that all new vacuum cleaners launched on or after this date, must show an A-G energy rating label based on the performance of the cleaner, dust re-emission, noise level and power consumption. Additionally, input power must be less than 1600 watt and annual energy consumption less than 62kWH.

These invaluable labels can help you make a discerned buying decision – do you want the highest dust pick performance or the lowest energy usage? The label will guide you.

Vacuums which have already been in the market before the above date, will continue to sell until the stock runs out. 

Energy Label Explained:

1.The supplier name or trademark and model identifier will appear at the top of the label.

2.The Energy Efficiency Class ranges from A-G, the A is considered to be the most efficient and G the least efficient.

3. The average annual energy consumption amount will be provided, you will find it has been calculated for an average household with 87sqm and with the frequency of 50 cleaning tasks performed over one year. Naturally the exact amount will vary depending on the actual usage of the appliance and the size of your home.

4. The noise level of the machine is measured in dB (Decibels), for instance if you want a quiet machine, go for the lowest possible dB rating.

5. The hard floor cleaning performance is rated from A-G for your cleaner.

6. The carpet cleaning performance class is rated from A-G (where an A rated cleaner is shown to clean >= 91 % of the dust from carpet, whereas a G rated cleaner will clean 70-71% of the dust from carpet).

7. The dust re-emission class is rated from A-G, this indicates how clean your machine exhaust air will be and depends on the type and quality of the exhaust filter.

[Read more...]

Washing Machines Buyer Guides

Before choosing the product, you could consider the following inputs and that may help you decide the type of washing machine that best suits your requirements.

Types of Washing Machines

1. Semi Automatic

A semi-automatic washing machine contains two tubs, one for washing and the other for drying. After washing the cloths, if drying is needed, the cloths have to be transferred manually to the drying tub for the drying cycle.

Pros:

Not necessary to have a continuous water flow. Manually water can be poured to the desired level based on the cloths to be washed.

Consumes less water as compared to a fully automatic model

Washing cycle requires less time

Can be moved easily to any location

Cons:

Manual intervention is required to transfer the cloths from wash tub to spin tub for drying process

You may have to remove the electrical connection while moving clothes from washing to drying, if wiring in the house is not properly earthed

Most of the controls are manual

Requires more space because the machine may be larger than the fully automatic

2. Fully Automatic (Top Loading)

This is the most common type of washing machine. Clothes are placed into the top of the washing tub, and a lid closed.

Pros:

Generally cheaper than front loaders

Set the required functions and then the machine works automatically and completes the whole cycle from washing to drying. You can select only wash or wash & dry or any other functions as per the model specifics.

Usually lighter in weight

Wide range of models and feature choices is available

Cons:

Running flow of water needed for the machine to complete the cycle automatically

Consumption of water is high

3. Fully Automatic (Front Loading)

This washing machine will have door at the front for placing clothes inside. It moves clothes around by rotating the drum.

Pros:

Comes with a built in heater (model specific)

Generally more water efficient

Wash quality may be better because of a tumble wash

Generally has more cycle settings – some washers have a heating element for an extra hot wash

Cons:

Higher initial cost

Slower wash cycle – although some models have a quick setting

Weight will be higher than top loading machines

Smaller range and capacities available

Needs a fixed place. Cannot be moved around

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How to Decide Which DSLR Camera is for You?

So how do you decide which DSLR to buy? There are an increasing array of them on the market so you have a real choice ahead of you.

Here are a few factors to consider when looking for a DSLR:

1. Price – a good place to start when thinking about buying a DSLR is obviously price. DSLRs price range in price from some quite affordable deals at the lower end to extremely high prices at the professional end. Set yourself a budget for your purchase early on but make sure that you keep in mind that you’ll need to consider other costs of owning one including:

Lenses

(some deals offer ‘kit lenses’ but you should consider upgrading – see below for more on this)

Batteries

(all models will come with one but if you are travelling you might need a spare)

Memory Cards

(some models come with one but most are inadequate in terms of size. Even if you’re lucky enough to have one included you’ll probably want to upgrade to at least a 1 gigabyte card).

Camera Bag

(some dealers will throw one in – but once again don’t expect a high quality ‘free’ bag. Your DSLR is something worth protecting – invest in a good bag)

Filters

(at the least you’ll want to get a UV filter for each lens you purchase – but you might also want to consider other types down the track also).

Extended Warrantees

(there’s a variety of opinions on whether they’re good or not – but they’re worth considering)

2. What will You use it For? – when you head into a camera store to purchase any type of question the first thing most sales people will ask you what type of photography you want to do. It is well worth asking yourself this question up front as it will help you think through the type of features and accessories you’ll need.

Will this be a general purpose camera for recording ‘life’? Are you wanting to travel with the camera? Is it for sports photography? Macro Photography? Low Light Photography? Make a realistic list of the type of photography you will use it for (note I said ‘realistic’ – it’s easy to dream of all kinds of things you’ll photograph – but in reality most of us only do half what we think we will).

3. Size – DSLRs are all more sizeable than compact point and shoot cameras but there is a fair bit of variation in size between them also. Some photographers don’t mind carrying around weighty gear but if you’re going to use it for on the go photography (travel, bushwalking etc) then small and light models can be very handy.

4. Previous Gear – the attractive thing about DSLRs is that in many cases they are compatible with some of the gear you might already have.

This is particularly the case for lenses. The chances are that if you have a film SLR that your lenses might well be compatible with a DSLR made by the same manufacturer. Don’t assume that all lenses will be compatible (particularly older gear) but it’s well worth asking the question as it could save you considerable money.

If you have a point and shoot camera you might also want to look at the type of memory card that it takes as some models of DSLRs could also be compatible with them. This probably won’t be a major consideration as memory cards are considerably cheaper than they used to be but it could be a factor to consider.

5. Resolution – ‘how many megapixels does it have’ is a question that is often one of the first to be asked about a new camera. While I think ‘megapixels’ are sometimes over emphasised (more is not always best) it is a question to consider as DSLRs come with a wide range of megapixel ratings. Megapixels come into play as you consider how you’ll use your images. If you’re looking to print enlargements then more can be good – if you’re just going to print in small sizes or use them for e-mailing friends then it’s not so crucial.

6. Sensor Size – Another related question to consider is how big the image sensor is. The term ‘crop factor’ comes up when you talk about image sensor size – I’ll upack this further in a future article as it’s perhaps a little complicated for the scope of this one. In general a larger sensor has some advantages over a smaller one (although there are costs too). But I’ll unpack this in a future post (stay tuned).

7. Future Upgrades – will you be in a position to upgrade your camera again in the foreseeable future? While entry level DSLRs are attractively priced they tend to date more quickly than higher end models and you run the risk of growing out of them as your expertise grows and you thirst for more professional features. Ask yourself some questions about your current level of expertise in photography and whether you’re the type of person who learns how to master something and then wants to go to a higher model that gives you more control and features. It’s a difficult question but you might find it’s worthwhile to pay a little more in the short term for a model that you can grow into.

8. Other Features

Most DSLRs have a large array of features that will probably overwhelm and confuse you at first as you compare them with one another. All have basic features like the ability to use aperture and shutter priority, auto or manual focus etc but there’s also a lot of variation in what is or isn’t offered. Here are some of the more common features that you might want to consider:

Burst Mode

– the ability to shoot a burst of images quickly by just holding down the shutter release – great for sports and action photography. DSLRs vary both in the number of frames that they can shoot per second as well as how many images they can shoot in a single burst.

Maximum Shutter Speed

– most DSLRs will have a decent range of speeds available to you but some will have some pretty impressive top speeds which will be very useful if you’re into sports or action photography.

ISO Ratings

– Similarly, most DSLRs will offer a good range of ISO settings but some take it to the next level which is useful in low light photography.

LCD Size

– It’s amazing how much difference half an inch can make when viewing images on your cameras LCD. I noticed this recently when testing a camera with a 2.5 inch screen after using my own 1.8 inch one. While it might not change the way you shoot photos (people tend to use viewfinders at this level to frame shots) it certainly can be nice to view your shots on a larger screen.

Anti Shake

– in the past few weeks a range of new DSLRs have been announced by manufacturers in the lead up to the Christmas rush. One of the features that is featuring more and more in them is anti shake technology. While it’s been common to get ‘image stabilisation’ technology in lenses the idea of it being built into camera bodies is something that is attractive.

Dust Protection

– another feature that has started appearing in the latest round of cameras is image sensor dust protection (and in some cases self cleaning for image sensors) – something that will help alleviate a lot of frustration that many DSLR photographers have. To this point this is a feature that is mainly on lower end DSLRs but it’s bound to appear on new professional models also.

Connectivity

– Getting photos out of your DSLR and into a computer or printer generally happens these days via USB but some people like FireWire and/or Wireless.

Semi-Auto Modes

– As with point and shoot cameras – many DSLRs (especially lower end ones) come with an array of shooting modes. These generally include ‘portrait’, ‘sports’, ‘night’ etc. If you rely upon these modes on your point and shoot you may well use them on your DSLR too. Higher end DSLRs often don’t have them.

Flash

– Generally professional grade DSLRs don’t offer built in flash and just have a hotshoe while entry level DSLRs include a built in flash.

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